It sticks in my craw when I read or hear of food miles. How, is not buying local, stuffing the planet? When I read or listen to the buy local cognoscenti all I get is opinions. No one presents any data supporting the buy local push but they certainly promote a lot of dogma. I trained as a transport geographer, worked for Woolworths in the freight business, completed post-graduate studies in fruit and vegetable processing (specifically on decisions to buy local or import raw material), spent two years in North Australia talking to farmers, then five in Canberra researching transport and have some knowledge of Australian food production and transport, so I can recognize food miles cant when I read or hear it.
I can’t buy potatoes grown near Sydney all year round. In August-October they come from the Atherton Tableland and as the season progresses, potato harvesting moves south to the Lockyer Valley, northern NSW, the southern highlands (NSW), the MIA, the Goulburn Valley (Victoria) and on to Tasmania. Western Australia also has a role in the supply. Potatoes are a vegetable, which we will not do without so I am guilty of polluting the world by buying potatoes. And then there are those delicious mangoes. In mid-year we see insipid excuses for a mango from the Philippines (very food miley) but by November, the Kimberly mangoes are trucking into Sydney followed by NT fruit and then Atherton and on down the cost to Bowen. Carrots, peas, beans broccoli, brussel sprouts; any fresh, canned or frozen vegetable or fruit has the same regional harvesting pattern. I don’t worry about their origins; I’m more concerned about the quality.
What got me started on food miles was listening to Margaret Throsby interviewing Mathew Evans, author, critic, chef, chook and cow herder living in Tasmania, touting his new book, The Real Food Companion, http://www.abc.net.au/classic/throsby/stories/s2850674.htm. I heard considerable piffle about sourcing locally and milking your own cow; example, ‘Michael Evans laments the loss of connection with the source of the food we eat and urges us to return to locally grown food to support regional agriculture and best farming practice and celebrate the true taste of real food’. ‘… the true taste of real food?’ Who wrote this tripe? Blah, blah, blah, with Margaret hanging off every word, mouthing stereotypical ignorance about where her food originates. I doubt she understood that many of his ingredients are not local (more on this below). Here’s the blurb for his book:
Booktopia Comments: As reviewed by Toni Whitmont in the March 2010 Booktopia Buzz. This is a stand-out from recipe writer, cook, author, passionate foodie, chef and now would-be farmer Matthew Evans, whose series about life on the land, Gourmet Farmer, is currently screening on free-to-air television. This lavishly presented book is destined to become a household reference along the lines of Stephanie Alexander’s The Cook’s Companion and Maggie Beer’s Maggie’s Harvest. Matthew’s writing is engaging and knowledgeable – he considers and answers many questions that will offer new insights for anyone with an interest in food. At the same time, he taps into the current back-to-basics approach to buying and cooking food and features tried and tested recipes, including techniques for how to make things such as your own ricotta and clotted cream.
The Real Food Companion, renowned food writer Matthew Evans shows us how to ethically source, cook and eat real food. Written with gusto and filled to bursting with information to inspire and a huge range of recipes to nurture the soul and family, The Real Food Companion outlines everything you need to know to navigate today’s complex food world. It’s the farmer, butcher, fishmonger and baker by your side.
The fresh, modern and eye-catching design and stunning food and location photography will ensure this comprehensive cookbook stands out on the shelves. It will appeal to dedicated foodies as well novice as cooks looking for a reliable and up-to-date kitchen companion.
Oops! Some proofing of this bilge needed here and ‘… stands out on the shelves.’ is always useful when cooking. Good on him for his output but some reality is in order. I wonder how many book miles this companion has clocked up? Murdoch Books (the publisher) prints in China. The first recipe I perused requires ‘ … thick sour/sweet pomegranate molasses available from Middle Eastern stores’. Not grown in Podnunk or wherever he has his chooks? And then there is the price: discounted at AUD79.95 from Booktopia plus postage (they’re in Lane Cove so probably about AUD10.00) or from Amazon at AUD36.70 (at current conversion) plus postage at AUD14.00 and ships from New York. This is typical of the food miles aficionados; much beating the natural foods drum without delving into the origins of whatever they are currently boosting.
And then there’s Bill McKibben[1]; Mr Gloom. We must mend our carbon emitting behaviour immediately. Pastor McKibben rails on while jetting around the world proselytizing. I even had an anthropogenic CO2 fanatic recommend his writings to me; such is the power of Bill’s propaganda. A sidebar on his ‘the end is nigh’ website http://www.billmckibben.com/index.html has:
Local products support local economies. Buying products from local growers, farmers and food artisans keeps money in the community, supporting the local economy.
Which links to Local Economies
For a hundred years we’ve been steadily extending the supply lines of our economy, becoming ever more globalized. But some have begun to question that trend, and even to form the foundations of a newer, more local economy. The main reasons are two-fold: our ever-growing globe-spanning economy is increasingly vulnerable to the ecological disruption it is causing, with global warming the prime example; and despite record affluence Americans report ever-growing feelings of disconnection and loss of community, trends that can only be reversed if we manage to rebuild local institutions that draw people together.
To wit, the farmer’s market: energy-efficient local food, and the average shopper has ten times as many conversations as a supermarket shopper. No wonder they’re the fastest-growing part of our food economy. Now we need to get going on other sectors too.
No doubt, supporting local communities keeps money in the community but I want potatoes all year round. And I don’t want ten more conversations than I can have in my supermarket; I am there to buy supplies not socialize. Like most experts (his training was in journalism[2] not economics, philosophy, science or anything where he would have been taught to question) out comes the ‘… ever-growing feelings of disconnection and loss of community …’ without a shred of evidence.
Returning to the local scene, here’s a well motivated but poorly informed group; the Canberra Environment and Sustainability Resource Centre and their Food Miles expose at http://www.ecoaction.com.au/category.php?id=80
What are ‘food miles’? ‘Food miles’ is a term referring to the distance food travels between the locations at which it is produced and consumed. Foods imported or not locally grown have far greater food miles than locally produced foods. An increase in food miles also increases the ecological footprint of the product, as it is necessary to transport it greater distances before being consumed, which produces more greenhouse emissions. References cited below blow a large hole in this tripe.
The CERES report on food miles in Australia estimates that the total road transportation distance for a typical Melbourne food basket is 21,073 km – almost the same distance as Australia’s coastline. The total distance for all transportation of the food basket was 70,803 km – equivalent to traveling Australia’s coastline three times. This is like those reports that the floods are the size of 20 Sydney Harbours – meaningless.
What are the Impacts? The further your food travels to your plate, the greater its environmental impact. Nonsense.
In the face of anthropogenic climate change it is important for consumers to be aware of the impacts their food choices are having on the environment.
While housing and construction contribute 11% to an individual’s eco-footprint, food consumption makes up 41%. … It is also important to consider the food miles accumulated when driving to the market as these are an additional source of greenhouse gas emissions. See my table of total emissions below – now 183 per cent which is logically invalid.
A reduction in food miles not only decreases a household’s contribution to environmental degradation, it also provides the consumer with fresher food, supports the local economy, and has greater potential to influence farmers to improve the ecological sustainability of their farming practices. No argument with reduction, it’s a given. That local is fresher is debatable. And influencing the local grower? How?
Additionally, as fuel prices continue to increase with the passing of ‘peak oil,’ foods which are transported further will become increasingly expensive, while locally produced foods will become the more affordable option. ‘Peak oil’ is a bit like ‘food miles’, no one really knows how much oil is still in the ground and whether it’s peaked yet.
What Can We Do?
- Buy locally produced and processed products
- When buying imported goods, opt for shipped rather than air freighted items (for example dried fruits as opposed to fresh).
- Eat foods that are locally in season
- Walk or ride your bike to the markets
- If using a car, plan your shopping trips to minimise inefficient travel
- Grow your own herbs, vegetables, and fruit
- Look into the sustainability of particular foods produced in your region – do they require exorbitant resources such as water, pest control, or energy? Could you choose a better alternative?
All laudable points but hardly revolutionary or practical. Regarding the last ‘What …, we buy Woolworths Home Brand Basmati rice, grown in India and packed in Thailand, because Australian rice consumes vast quantities of irrigated water. We buy Italian diced tomatoes from Aldi because they are substantially cheaper than irrigated tomatoes grown and processed in Victoria’s Goulburn Valley. These are resource and economic decisions not driven but globalization or local economy hyperbole.
Here is my current table of anthropogenic emissions sourced from various readings and beginning to stretch credibility.
| Source | Per cent |
| Land vehicle emissions | ? |
| Food consumption | 40 |
| Farm animals | 20 |
| Global air travel | 3 |
| Worldwide, buildings | 40 to 50 |
| Coal | 40 |
| People | 40 |
| Total | 183 to 193 |
Some more food-mile tosh from the Australian Conservation Foundation at http://www.acfonline.org.au/articles/news.asp?news_id=491
Food mile facts
- The energy consumed in food freight often outweighs the nutritional energy in the food itself. For instance, it takes around 1,000 kilojoules of energy to ship 170kJ worth of strawberries from Chile to the United States.
- A recent German study found that a 240ml cup of yoghurt in a supermarket shelf in Berlin entails over 9,000km of transportation. (Germans eat three billion cups a year.)
- In the United States, the food for a typical meal has travelled nearly 2,100km, but if that meal contains off-season fruits or vegetables the total distance is many times higher.
- Even imported organic food can have a tremendous impact. A single Briton’s shopping basket of 26 imported organic products could have travelled 241,000km and released as much CO2 into the atmosphere as an average four bedroom household does through cooking meals over eight months.
I note that they don’t provide their sources for these facts. Why can’t we have the actual tonnes of CO2 emitted instead of 170kJ, a cup of yoghurt, 26 imported organic products could have traveled 241,000km and a four bedroom house cooking meals over eight months? Because the emissions can’t be quantified accurately. The quotations and references below make this clear. Here are some food mile reports that I retrieved with one search and Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_miles
Hogan, L and Thorpe, S (2009), Issues in food miles and carbon labeling, ABARE research report 09.18, http://www.abare.gov.au/interactive/09_ResearchReports/FoodMiles/
Empirical evidence indicates that food miles is an unreliable indicator of carbon emissions in the food supply chain. For example, in 2006 a major study on the validity of food miles found that New Zealand is substantially more energy efficient, and less carbon intensive, than UK producers in producing and delivering lamb and dairy products to the UK market. Importantly, while food miles may have intuitive appeal among some consumers, the food miles concept results in less informed consumption choices and does not reflect the carbon emissions embodied in many products
Engelhaupt, E. (2008). ‘Do food miles matter?’, Environmental Science & Technology, 42, p. 3482
Some scholars believe that the increase is due to the globalization of trade; the focus of food supply bases into fewer, larger districts; drastic changes in delivery patterns; the increase in processed and packaged foods; and making fewer trips to the supermarket. Others state that the most of the greenhouse gas emissions created by food have their origin in the production phases, … Recent studies in America and the UK indicate that about 80% of food emissions are produced before the food leaves the farm gate.
Chi, Kelly Rae, James MacGregor and Richard King (2009). Fair Miles: Recharting the food miles map, IIED/Oxfam. http://www.iied.org/pubs/display.php?o=15516IIED
According to Oxfam researchers, there are many other aspects of the agricultural processing and the food supply chain that also contribute to greenhouse gas emissions which are not taken into account by simple “food miles” measurements. Food miles also ignore benefits gained by improving livelihoods in developing countries through agricultural development. Smallholder farmers in poor countries can often improve their income and standard of living if they can access distant export markets for higher value horticultural produce moving away from subsistence agriculture of producing staple crops for their own consumption or local markets.
Smith, A. et al. (2005) ‘The Validity of Food Miles as an Indicator of Sustainable Development: Final report’. DEFRA, London. See https://statistics.defra.gov.uk/esg/reports/foodmiles/default.asp
A recent DEFRA case study indicated that tomatoes grown in Spain and transported to the United Kingdom may have a lower carbon footprint in terms of energy efficiency than tomatoes grown in heated greenhouses the United Kingdom
Weber, C., & Matthews, H. (2008). ‘Food-Miles and the Relative Climate Impacts of Food Choices in the United States’, Environmental Science & Technology, 42(10), 3508-3513.
Studies of the total carbon footprint of food production in the U.S. have shown transportation to be of minor importance, compared to the carbon emissions resulting from pesticide and fertilizer production, and the fuel required by farm and food processing equipment.
Additional references
McWilliams, James E. (2007-08-06). ‘Food that travels well’. The New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/2007/08/06/opinion/06mcwilliams.html?_r=1&oref=login&oref=slogin
Edwards-Jones, G., Milài Canals, L., Hounsome, N., Truninger, M., Koerber, G., Hounsome, B., et al. (2008). ‘Testing the assertion that ‘local food is best’: the challenges of an evidence-based approach’. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 19(5), 265-274.
Waye, V. (2008). ‘Carbon Footprints, Food Miles and the Australian Wine Industry’, Melbourne Journal of International Law, 9, 271-300.
Iles, A. (2005). ‘Learning in sustainable agriculture: Food miles and missing objects’, Environmental Values, 14, 163-83.
McKie, R. (2008). ‘How the myth of food miles hurts the planet’, Retrieved March 23, 2008, from http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2008/mar/23/food.ethicalliving
Holt, D., & Watson, A. (2008). ‘Exploring the dilemma of local sourcing versus international development –the case of the Flower Industry’, Business Strategy and the Environment, 17, 318-329.
Pierre Desrochers & Hiroko Shimizu. ‘Yes We Have No Bananas: A Critique of the Food Mile Perspective.’ Mercatus Policy Series, Policy Primer No. 8, October 2008. http://mercatus.org/PublicationDetails.aspx?id=24612
Blanke, M. and B. Burdick (2005). ‘Food (miles) for thought: energy balance for locally-grown versus imported apple fruit’, Environmental Science and Pollution Research 12(3):125-127.
Borot, A., J. MacGregor and A. Graffham(eds) (2008).’ Standard Bearers: Horticultural exports and private standards in Africa. IIED, London.
DEFRA (2009) Food Statistics Pocketbook 2009. DEFRA, London. See https://statistics.defra.gov.uk/esg/publications/pocketstats/
Jones, A. (2006), ‘A Life Cycle Analysis of UK Supermarket Imported Green Beans from Kenya, Fresh Insights No. 4. IIED/DFID/NRI,
Muuru, J. (2009), ‘Kenya’s Flying Vegetables: Small farmers and the ‘food miles’ debate’, Policy Voice Series. Africa Research Institute, London.
Plassman, K. and G. Edwards-Jones (2009), ‘Where Does the Carbon Footprint Fall? Developing a carbon map of food production’, IIED, London. See www.iied.org/pubs/pdfs/16023IIED.pdf
Smith, A. et al. (2005), ‘The Validity of Food Miles as an Indicator of Sustainable Development: Final report’, DEFRA, London. See https://statistics.defra.gov.uk/esg/reports/foodmiles/default.asp.
Wangler, Z. (2006), ‘Sub-Saharan African Horticultural Exports to the UK and Climate Change: A literature review’, Fresh Insights No 2. IIED, London.
Why do people distort information?
Why do Mathew Evans, Bill McKibbin and the other food milers distort and misreport when one click of the mouse returns credible information about food transport? They gain nothing, indeed, that temple of do-goodism, Oxfam, states that they do harm by limiting access of African farmers to European markets. The words globalisation, farmer’s markets and local economy have the Pavlovian food milers shedding any semblance of intelligent analysis. Assuming that the Canberra Environment and Sustainability Resource Centre and the Australian Conservation Foundation people are educated, the mystery of why they champion food miles mis-information leaves me puzzled. Perusing the members of the Board of the ACF confirms that they are led by reputable thinkers so how did this nonsense get published on their website? If they are so wrong on this issue, what other fallacies are they promoting?
We will continue our purchasing based on global information not bleeding heart, new age waffle.
[1] See my comments on Bill McKibben in ‘Climate Change’.
[2] There have always been flacks writing whatever they’ve been paid to churn out but I can remember when journalism was a profession; one that outed wrongs against humanity; where information was triple checked for authenticity; where balance was the norm. When I read McKibbens bio I see he has taken flackery to a low art form; he doesn’t enlighten me on his education, only his bleeding heart.


